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Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Chattanooga: Chefs share recipes, best advice for Mother's Day

Every day, area chefs work to impress us with the dynamic dishes they create. Mother’s Day is no different.

According to the National Restaurant Association, six out of 10 children will take their moms out for a meal on their special day.

Given the opportunity to cook for their moms, what would a chef prepare to impress her?

Here’s a look at several area chefs who share some of their mother’s sage cooking advice as well as their favorite dishes and the recipes to make them.

SUSAN MOSES

Chef/owner, 212 Market

Mom: Maggie Moses, a dietitian who works alongside her daughters at 212.

Mom’s favorite dish: A crab soufflé with boursin cheese. Described by the chef as light, elegant and fun to eat, it can be served as a first course, side dish or entree with a salad and crusty bread.

Mom’s best cooking advice: “Don’t ever be afraid to tackle anything. Being a dietitian, it’s always been easy for her to bring together colorful, healthful and tasty meals.”

DIEGO GARRIDO

Chef for the Bluff View Art District

Mom: Blanca Garrido, who also cooks for the art district.

Mom’s favorite dish: “I’d make lamb stew,” said Mr. Garrido. “It’s an Ecuadorian dish that we haven’t had in a while, and she loves it.”

Mom’s best cooking advice: “Presentation is almost as important as taste, and you should always taste as you are cooking to make sure the flavors are right.”

MICHELLE HUFFMAN

Executive chef/owner of the Palate Cafe at Hunter Museum and Events With Taste catering

Mom: Sue Huffman.

Mom’s favorite dish: Creme brulee. “She won’t even try to make it, though she has everything she needs so that I can come to her house and make it for her,” said Ms. Huffman. “I made peach creme brulee for her birthday last year, but she really likes regular creme brulee.”

Mom’s best cooking advice: “She taught me to clean up as I cook, but it didn’t stick.”

SUSAN MOSES

Chef/owner, 212 Market

Mom: Maggie Moses, a dietitian who works alongside her daughters at 212.

Mom’s favorite dish: A crab soufflé with boursin cheese. Described by the chef as light, elegant and fun to eat, it can be served as a first course or side dish or as an entree with a salad and crusty bread.

Mom’s best cooking advice: “Don’t ever be afraid to tackle anything. Being a dietitian, it’s always been easy for her to bring together colorful, healthful and tasty meals.”

Boursin Cheese-Crab Soufflé

3 tablespoons softened butter, plus more for greasing ramekins

2 tablespoons cornmeal

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

5 eggs, separated

Pinch salt

Pinch ground white pepper

Pinch grated nutmeg

1 cup Boursin cheese

1 cup crabmeat, preferably Dungenness or stone crab

Pinch cream of tartar

Prepare four (8-ounce) ramekins by greasing them with softened butter, then coating them with cornmeal and shaking excess cornmeal out.

Make a thick béchamel sauce by melting the 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a pot. When the foam subsides, add the flour by whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Cook for 2-3 minutes. Add the milk and keep whisking until thick. Remove from heat and set aside.

Beat in the egg yolks one by one. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Stir in the cheese and crabmeat until incorporated.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar just until soft peaks are formed. Fold in 1/3 of the whites to lighten it, then gently fold in the rest.

Pour into the ramekins, and place these on a cookie sheet. Bake on middle rack around 25 minutes. The soufflé is done when it has puffed over the rim, the outside is golden and the center is slightly jiggly. Serve with a salad for a light entrée or as a side dish. Makes 4 servings.

MICHELLE HUFFMAN

Executive chef/owner of the Palate Cafe at Hunter Museum and Events With Taste catering

Mom: Sue Huffman.

Mom’s favorite dish: Creme brulee. “She won’t even try to make it, though she has everything she needs so that I can come to her house and make it for her,” said Ms. Huffman. “I made peach creme brulee for her birthday last year, but she really likes regular creme brulee.”

Mom’s best cooking advice: “She taught me to clean up as I cook, but it didn’t stick.”

Creme Brulee

1 quart heavy cream

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 cup vanilla sugar, divided

6 large egg yolks

2 quarts hot water

Heat oven to 325 F. Place the cream, vanilla bean and its pulp into a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and allow to sit for 15 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and reserve for another use.

In a medium bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup sugar and the egg yolks until well blended and it just starts to lighten in color. Add the cream a little at a time, stirring continually. Pour the liquid into 6 (7- to 8-ounce) ramekins. Place the ramekins into a large cake pan or roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake just until the creme brulee is set but still trembling in the center, 40 to 45 minutes. Remove the ramekins from the roasting pan and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.

Remove the creme brulee from the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before browning the sugar on top. Divide the remaining 1/2 cup vanilla sugar equally among the 6 dishes and spread evenly on top. Using a torch, melt the sugar and form a crispy top. Allow the creme brulee to sit for at least 5 minutes before serving.

JOSEPH BLACK

Executive chef, Blue Plate Diner

Mom: Mary Lynn Black.

Mom’s favorite dish: “She loves a molten chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream,” said Mr. Black. “She usually doesn’t complain about anything I cook as long as dessert follows.”

Mom’s best cooking advice: “She told me to keep my temper under wraps, and everything will work out fine.”

Molten Chocolate Cake

6 (1-ounce) squares bittersweet chocolate

2 (1-ounce) squares semisweet chocolate

10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar

3 large eggs

3 egg yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

Heat oven to 425 F. Grease 6 (6-ounce) custard cups. Melt the chocolates and butter in a double boiler. Add the flour and confectioners sugar to chocolate mixture. Stir in the eggs and yolks until smooth. Stir in the vanilla and orange liqueur. Divide the batter evenly among the custard cups. Place in the oven and bake for 14 minutes. The edges should be firm, but the center will be runny.

DIEGO GARRIDO

Chef for the Bluff View Art District

Mom: Blanca Garrido, who also cooks for the art district.

Mom’s favorite dish: “I’d make lamb stew,” said Mr. Garrido. “It’s an Ecuadorian dish that we haven’t had in a while, and she loves it.”

Mom’s best cooking advice: “Presentation is almost as important as taste, and you should always taste as you are cooking to make sure the flavors are right.”

Lamb Stew

4 pounds lamb, cut into chunks

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 tomatoes, chopped

1 crushed garlic clove

1 onion, chopped

1 cup beer

Salt, pepper and cumin, to taste

1/4 cup water

3 red potatoes, cut into chunks

1 bunch parsley and/or cilantro, chopped

Chili powder, to taste

Sauté lamb in olive oil till browned. Add tomatoes, garlic and onions. Add beer, salt, pepper and cumin; simmer for 30 minutes or until reduced by half. Add water, then potatoes. Continue simmering until reduced by half again. Stir in parsley and/or cilantro. Add chili powder and stir to combine.

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